Blot, do not rub, working from the outside of the mark inward so you lift the stain rather than spreading it. Use cold water as the default, since heat sets most protein-based stains, blood, vomit, pet urine, into the fibre rather than lifting them out. And always test any product on a hidden patch first, particularly on wool or natural dyed carpet, before treating a visible stain. These three habits improve the result on almost everything on this page.
The 10 minute rescue using things already in your pantry.
Fresh vs set-in, and what wool blends need instead.
Why the smell keeps coming back, and the enzyme method that ends it.
Freeze it, scrape it, then lift the rest with heat.
Scrape first, cold water only, blot rather than rub.
Why letting it dry first gives a better result than wiping it up wet.
Cold water is not optional, the technique that actually works.
Harden it first, then work it loose without pulling.
Blot immediately, treat carefully, always test a hidden patch first.
What to do in the first 24 hours to reduce mould risk.
Fresh, wet, water-based or acrylic paint can often be blotted up with cold water before it sets, following the same blot-not-rub principle as everything else here. Once paint has dried, it bonds far more stubbornly to carpet fibre, and oil-based paint in particular should not be attacked with strong solvents at home, since the wrong product can damage the fibre or backing. A dried paint stain is one of the few we would genuinely recommend a professional assessment for rather than a DIY attempt.
If a stain has already set, covers a wide area, or DIY treatment has not shifted it after a reasonable attempt, that is the point to call rather than keep working at it with stronger and stronger products. We would rather give you an honest read on whether a stain will lift than have you risk the carpet trying every remedy in the cupboard.

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